Sunday, October 07, 2007

Cambodia and the "Angelina Effect"

Ask anyone in the Siem Reap if they know who Angelina Jolie is, and their faces will light up as they share their own story about an Angelina encounter (or two). The Cambodian people like the pouffy-lipped actress so much that they granted her Cambodian citizenship (good luck traveling with that passport). You can argue that she has singlehandedly increased awareness for Cambodia, both its plight and its cultural riches, more so than their tourism board or government could ever hope to. Indeed, the two temples that were featured in the first Tomb Raider movie, Angkor Wat and Ta Phrom, are now the two most-visited places on the Angkor temples circuit. In addition, she has also donated $1 million towards conservation and preservation of natural areas in the southern part of Cambodia. $1 million dollars in a country where the average monthly salary is $30 is a whole lot of money. While in Cambodia, I must admit that I, too, have been impressed by the "Angelina Effect", and have to tip my hat to Ms. Jolie for her generosity and humanity.

Yesterday, I visited a few more temples: Angkor Wat (again, but just for the sunrise), Beng Mealea, Bantaey Srei, and the aforementioned Ta Phrom. Beng Mealea was definitely a sight to behold -- almost completely run over by the jungle, the temple was "discovered" only ten years or so ago, and hasn't really received any funds to be restored. As a result, the place feels like a lost city, with piles of rubble from parts of the temple that had collapsed, and vines and tree roots twisted everywhere. At the same time, the place also had an eerie sense of calm. Fewer tourists come to this part of the Angkor temples, as it's at least an hour's drive outside of Siem Reap, so I almost had the whole place to myself.

Bantaey Srei was an interesting contrast because of both its appearance and its scale. The entire temple was really small (the doorways were barely as tall as me), and the entire place was made of pink sandstone instead of the grey sandstone used at all of the other Angkor temples. It was also extremely well preserved, and the intricate carvings were absolutely beautiful. Of course, I was partial to the apsaras carvings. :)

And last but not least, Ta Phrom. It was the last temple I visited yesterday, and also the last one on this trip. And there's definitely some truth to leaving the best for last. Like Beng Mealea, Ta Phrom also looks run over by the jungle -- mostly the local "strangler fig" trees who, well, strangle the buildings with their roots. Ta Phrom is also home to what's probably now the most photographed tree in the world -- the one that was featured in Tomb Raider from which Angelina plucked a flower before falling into the "tomb" (which was of course, a set). Ta Phrom was also really beautiful -- I'm glad it was the last temple I visited since it's probably hard to top the views and beautiful weather (and hence lighting) that I saw there.

Tonight, I bid adieu to Cambodia for the last stop on my trip -- Hanoi, Vietnam. Thanks for the memories, Cambodia. It's been fun.

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